When I left Finland a month ago, I was sure I would try surfing here in Hawaii. Maybe a couple of times a month, tops.
I had tried it before and it sure was fun but really exhausting, and way too messy with all the sand and salty water.
Hawaii and surfing seemed like a big cliche to me. Definitely no Facebook profile pictures with a surf board.
Well I don't know what exactly happened in the past two weeks but I'm absolutely hooked on this sport. And really bad
at it which is why I feel like the biggest, phoniest wannabe-surf-groupie ever. Today I even got myself a brand new, pink
longboard. And paid 25$ extra just for the color. Still wondering why I feel like a one big wannabe.
Last sunday a couple of guys rented a pick-up truck which fit 8 people, two sitting inside and 6 in the bed of the
truck with all the boards. Like this we drove to the North Shore for the day to catch some scary big waves. I'll probably
never forget the feeling I had when I went to bed after the day. Granola was falling off the spoon because my hands were
shaking so bad, that's how exhausted I was. My hips and knees had the biggest bruises ever, and I'm still covered with
the red rash the board gave me. But still when I went to sleep that night, I was so crazy happy, smiling to myself and
couldn't sleep because I still had all that adrenaline running in my vains.
Next weekend we will probably stay here in Waikiki. The waves in here are not that big so there's a certain fear and
excitement definitely missing, but I really can't complain. It's so absurd how I can actually go out of the door wearing
only bikini and just grab my board and keys - that's how easy it is. No even flipflops needed.
And in case someone is already bored with the iPhone photos - so am I. A new lens is on it's way so I'll
probably get excited about my camera again pretty soon. :)
